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Thanks for the reply, its good to know that it's possible to fine tune a suspension to your own needs without having to pay someone to do it for you (I've had many streebikes but never fiddled with the suspension settings). It's good to hear that not everyone who bought a 636 has the problem of the seat putting their package on the tank.
 

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I weigh about 180 and ended up setting the compression damping full-soft on both ends on my kaw 636. Rebound i left in the middle. I got sick of mid-corner bumps jarring me around after I started to haul some ass. Everything else is awesome, and I know you guys that own one are getting a lot of compliments on the bike!!
 

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Has anyone picked up the new uh...Sportrider?

They say the 636 has the rear ride height shim installed by default.

Also they are the only mag that has printed a suggested suspension setup, I am curious if anyone has tried it.



srleadjb, could you post your setup and your weight? heh

I am about 150 pounds and would like a good starting point for preload front and rear, because the stock settings are obviously much too firm for my weight.



Half the fun of having a bike is tweaking it to fit you like a glove.



1 more question, since this is the first new bike I have bought. How closely do you guys follow the break-in rules for the engine? I'm at 400 miles, about to go put another 100 on today, and really want to open her up!
 

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I weight between 150 and 165lbs year round (depending on how often I'm in the gym). I'm about 160 now. I tried all sorts of settings and ended up very close to sportriders. I did not adjust the ride height in either the front or rear. The rest is as follows. Front: preload - 4 lines showing. Compression - 2 clicks out from full soft. Rebound - 7 clicks back from full stiff. Rear - Can't remember settings but they were the same as sportriders except I went 1/2 turn softer on rear compression. I did not adjust the rear preload as sportrider did but I might try it. So far it's a great compromise between quick canyon riding and city riding. If you hit a smooth canyon or track you could dial in a bit more front end compression.



Break-in is a highly debatable subject. If you have already got 400 miles then you probably missed the most important part of break-in, in my opinion anyway and thats an oil change at 100 miles and then again at the factory specs, usually 600. Don't panic if you didn't I just like to be extra careful. Other than that, I talked to about 10 mechanics when I bought mine and they said the most important thing is to very the load on the engine and avoid lugging the engine in top gear (causes internal piston temps to get too high and effects the ring setting into the piston walls). So basically don't redline it but rev it a little in lower part of the range. Don't keep the rpm's at the same place for more than a minute or so. They all seemed to agree that after the first 600 oil change you can let it rip!!! That's what I did. Oh, just in case your not a seasoned rider, beware of the first gear wheelie! This bike is awesome!!! Oh and in case some of you haven't seen it I just got done reading Sportbikes (UK mag). Chaulk up another one for the Kawi!
 

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Thanks a lot for the response.

After I asked the break-in question I spent about 2 hrs reading through forums all over the net and was amazed at what a deep topic it is.

I am going to change my oil this week and then just take it up through the rev range from now on.



thanks again.
 

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Re: Too sharp for their own good?

Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I was wondering how that wobble came about...

No damper for me though, that's how my GL tells me the back tire is going flat again :D
 
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