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1982 Honda CB450T-Hawk Oil Question

24954 Views 69 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  EAA
Get a Clymer or Haynes manual for your bike. Synthetic probably would not cause problems but isn't necessary either. Stick with the dino juice and routine maintenance and you'll be finde...
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a quick search on the net (amazon, etc.) didn't turn up a haynes manual for your particular motorcycle, but 10 seconds on google (search perameters: "how to change motorcycle oil") turned up these useful links...



3 (here on the MO servers)



if nothing else, see if there is a section in the owner's manual (did you get that from the previous owner?) which covers this very basic and necessary process.

cheers :)
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What would be the point in switiching to synthetic? It's just more money for a bike that will be just fine on dino oil.
The only possible reason would be if you're in a very hot climate and you're having a problem with overheating. My air-cooled HD consistently runs 50+ degrees cooler with synthetic oil than with mineral oil.
Yes, that is a concern I currently have. When the temps get in to the 70's I noticed that the clutch pull becomes very rough. I am not sure if that's a indication for a hot engine or not. My bike doesn't have a temp guage and it is air cooled.
It would be kinda cool to have the oil in the bike be worth more than the bike itself.

I freakin' KNEW that someone was gonna say it!
Don't put synthetic in this bike. The gaskets and seals in the engine are 25 years old. If you put synthetic oil in it, it'll leak oil like a sieve. I don't think synthetic causes leaks, but it will find its way through places that regular oil won't, especially with old seals.

I had a '79 400 Hawk that I rode for years and just put regular oil in it. It's still running for the guy who bought it. The 450T will run great with regular oil.

Get a manual to change the oil. It's not hard to do, but these bikes don't have spin-on filters so the manual will give you some guidance the first time.
...links 4 and 5 have to do with your synthetic vs. dino dilemma. (i do agree with the others about just running decent dino oil in your rig and changing it at regular intervals, however.)

cheers :)
Do you mean ambient temperature at 70 Farenheit, or engine temperature at 70 Celsuis? Because if it's giving you problems at 70 ambient I'd say it isn't the weather causing the problem.

You can get a cheapo IR point thermometer at pep boys. It will tell you the temperature of anything you point it at. Useful for finding hot spots on engines, tire temps, surface temps in general. Could come in handy for you.

--The Fox
it's quite a common old honda's problem. when the motor is hot, the inner ally clutch hub expands and rubs against tired and deformed clutch springs. Tear it open, get the springs out, fit new ones (cheap) and while there, enlarge with a dremel bit the internal diameter of the spring cavities.

t's quite a common old honda's problem. when the motor is hot, the inner ally clutch hub expands and rubs against tired and deformed clutch springs. Tear it open, get the springs out, fit new ones (cheap) and while there, enlarge with a dremel bit the internal diameter of the spring cavities.

I am finding that Shell ROTELLA T SAE 15W-40 seems like good choice for a dino oil. Any one have any experience with it?
For a number of reasons synthetic is not a good choice for this bike. Rotella T 15W-40 is a good choice, as are all the diesel-specific non-synthetics. You can also look for Delo or Delvac, but Rotella is much easier to find.

Synthetics will indeed find leaks where currently there are none.
Better yet: take the springs that are in there - use a screwdriver between each coil (or some other means) to "expand" the springs. Cover a cookiesheet with foil and then "bake" them at 350deg F for 4 hours in your oven to re-anneal them (it goes without saying to clean them thoroughly if you'd like to use the oven again for food).

Whilst it's apart, take the clutch STEELS (noting which order they came apart) and toss 'em down on a flat sidewalk. Use your foot to move them around, "scuffing" the surface of each side. The coarser the better. Don't overdo it, just get the surface good and scratched-up. Clean these thoroughly, re-assemble with clean engine oil in the reverse order, with your newly-annealed springs.

Button back up with a thin bead of Yamabond or Hondabond (hylomar) sealant.

There you have it - Zero Dollar clutch rebuild. (you should already have the hylomar in your toolbox. WhaAAAT? You say you DON'T? Why not?)
Go for it.

Good [email protected]#$in' Oil, [email protected]#$a'!
If you are just now getting around to changing it (for the first time since 1982?), why bother? The old oil is probably barely broken in.
Especially if he uses the rear brake a lot.
You are officially never allowed to work on my bike.

You think that I'm joking about that technique?

It seems to be pretty common amongst moto-cross racers; it's been related to me by three different people (but only one suggested the spring-annealing trick).

I admit, I have yet to actually try it. BUT, I fully-intend to use it next time I have a bike with a "soft clutch". (actually, I have one that's softening-up a bit right now, and will likely employ this method early this summer)

I'd say it's no less-valid than enlarging the openings around the pressure-plate springs. If Honda had wanted them bigger, they'd have made them so at the Factory, right?

I'll report-back on my success (or lack therof) soon enough.

P.S. Those of you who change your own tyres: If you don't have a Mojo-Lever tyre bar, WHY THE HELL DON'T YOU?!!!! That thing is FAN-tastic!
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