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· Registered
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here is the bone head thing that I did.
Dead battery (very surprissed, never before) so I hooked up charger, waited about 45 min and tried to start, it would turn but battery still weak, charged a little longer and the same, weaited a little longer and still not enough juice. ALL THIS TIME I WAS CRANCKING THE STARTER WITH THE CHARGER STILL HOOKED UP. Well the last time something did not feel right and after when I turn the ignition to on with the charger still on my tachometer showed about 5000 rpm, with a bigger charger on it shows 7000 rpm, more amps more rpm's???
Anyway I disconected everything and tried to charge battery out of the bike and I guess battery is fried.
But I replaced with new battery and now still will not turn and when turning ignition on the "tach" needle jumps a little and the starter tries but it will not turn.
Any suggestions?? fried the starter? ingiter?
where to start troubleshooting?
thanks in advance!

· The Toad
17,449 Posts
What bike?

Loose connections? Blown fuses? Broken wires? Wires melted together?

You can get weird feedback loops in electrical systems. It's check all of the above and if everything seems fine better get a manual and follow the troubleshooting guide.

No, no one on the internet is going to give you better advice than you will find in the factory manual. Trying to save that money is almost always false economy.

· Registered
11,482 Posts
Are you absolutely POSITIVE (no pun intended) you had the charger hooked-up correctly? I've been working on machinery for close to thirty years now, and recently made this stupid, stupid mistake (first time for everything, I suppose).

Luckily, it was on an older vehicle, and the battery was dead (and probably wouldn't take a charge anyway), and had no unswitched-electronics to fry. I only noticed what I'd done when I went to check on it, a few hours later.

My first Manager job at a Wal-Mart Automotive, we had a kid replace a battery for a Customer on a late-model Toyota; he used the right size but the wrong "handedness" of battery (reversed terminals). An extremely costly mistake, virtually every electronic bit (with the exception of the ECU - they're diode-protected, apparently) had to be replaced.

Most chargers made in the last few years are "smart" and will prevent current-flow if you goof.

Now that I've sufficiently horrified you, are you also absolutely certain that the NEW battery is charged sufficiently?

Is it possible that you have a coincidental-failure of say, a float-valve in the carb (if it's carb'd) and it's filled-up a cylinder with fuel and hydrolocked the engine?

Not a lot to go on here, hard to "diagnose over the 'Net" on these things. Also, we don't know your mechanical-ability, hard to just say "check the watzenjammit and see if it's worn outta'-round" without hoping you know the exact procedure for checking watzenjammits, and the wear-range allowed from the factory. And, as sezurmama suggested - a Factory Manual for the bike would be quite helpful to you here, I bet.
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