I think the real question is why are you asking, Matt? Are you getting a bit anxious with the new ride?
Simply speaking; follow the manufacturers break-in schedule as best you can and you should be OK. I've done this on a bunch of different bikes and have put big miles on my bikes with no problems so far. (No excess oil burning, no leaking valves or rings, etc.)
Understand, "...as best you can..." means just that. Once the first 50 miles are out of the way I have broken in all my bikes the same way. I take a weekend trip to Hot Springs, Arkansas from Oklahoma City by way of the back roads. That's a little over 600 mi roundtrip. I stay off the interstate entirely on the way there so the speeds are below 65 mph and the little towns keep me from riding at a set speed for very long. The way back I usually hit the highway for the last 100 mi blast home and the only thing I don't do is rev to the redline.
As much as I know, from all I have read and learned from engine builders and mechanics, high manifold pressure is key to breaking in an engine, to allow the rings to seat properly.
This means that you should look for large throttle opening on acceleration and closed throttle on deceleration. The manifold pressure presses the rings against the cylinder bores, allowing them to wear in accordance with the exact shape of the bore, allowing a perfect seal.
Note that large throttle openings DO NOT equate to high RPMs!!! The higher you rev the engine early in its life, the quicker you'll wear out the rings and the bore imperfection, which would prevent you from "breaking them in" the best possible way.
The MototuneUSA article pretty much sums it all: low RPM, high throttle for the first 50-80 miles, and then progressively stretch the RPM band. Avoid prolonged high RPMs for the first few hundred miles. And change your oil after 80 miles or so.
And to make sure your warranty doesn't get voided.
I've followed break-in on several bikes. Basically, no full throttle, running up and down the gears, varying speeds, etc. First oil change is important. After that... go for broke. All the bikes have performed well and reliably. I see no reason not to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
This procedure seems like a great way to make sure that your rings never get seated properly. In order for the rings to get seated, they have to be pushed outwards by high cylinder pressure, and you just don't get that with low throttle openings. Maybe this article is just BMW R-series, specific, but if you do this to a modern motorcycle engine, you'll end up with a low-power, leaky-ring engine that uses tons of oil (wait, isn't that all BMWs? .
Motorcycle engines don't need to be babied. A recent issue of Bike magazine (from UK) has an engine destruction test - they ran a Kawasaki ZX-6R engine at redline for a long time with no coolant and with just 1qt of oil. They managed to burn out and blow up the exhaust and pretty much set the bike on fire, but the engine never seized and after cooling down (and topping it up with oil and water) it ran fine.
I would rather trust the recommendations of this guy:
I've never had a new street bike, but I've had 6 new motocross bikes and all I've ever done is start initially for 10 minutes and then let cool, then ride normally for about 20 minutes, let cool and then consider the bike "broken in". I've never had any problems with any of the bikes and I've done then same with each of them......
Common-knowledge says that left over slivers, chunks, and grit are left in the engine from it's original mfr and the break in oil allows for collection of that crud. Perhaps even the break-in oil is slightly different than standard oil with extra lube and junk to ease this process.
Further, in most freshly built engines I've known, parts need to "match" each other for smoothest, leak-free running. This match takes a little time, and 600mi is probably a reasonable for any daily-use vehicle.
(racers will bang-em in and run, but they live with motors that are rebuilt every 3 races or so).
Besides, if it slips out that you beat it badly during break-in, I'd walk away from you if I were a dealer about to provide service.
Do what the mfr says, and if it chokes, the *mfr* is responsible for remedying the situation. Why mess with that deal?
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