[43256]

I wholeheartedly agree, plus

-the Ninja 250's very lightweight (300 lbs) and good handling makes it very forgiving when (not if) the rookie mistakes occur.

-low tech bike means you get to enjoy learning how to do maintenance yourself

-if you learn how to go fast around a track on this bike, you'll be able to pretty much run away from everyone else when you upgrade to a 600/650

-OK so you won't learn how to do wheelies on this bike, but I think rookies should learn this "skill" in the dirt anyways

-You can buy this bike used for $1,800 (with low miles), and it costs very, very little to operate and insure

-For this kind of money, you won't find any other bike that is so fun, comfortable and easy to ride.

 

[38817]

A dirt bike or a bike in the dirt. Before I learned to go faster on the road I explored the negative, crash and burn, side of the scale. Fortunately I was playing in the dirt or at least an open field so it was all fun. I learned what it was to fall, wheelie and pick up a bike.



Best first street bike? Me and my buddies all started on 750's when they were about as big and fast as they got. I'm not really sure it matters that much. Everybody says to start small because beginners can't handle the power of big bikes but I don't agree. I certainly wouldn't know from personal experience but I have heard that people tend to overcompensate for smallness...

 

[Fenton]

Re: Excellent Point

Rich with the love and companionship of the MO readers.

 

[Fenton]

I learned on a 1983 Interceptor 750cc. In retrospect, I should kick my friends butt for letting me on that thing.

 

[MPA]

Hayabusa - a turbo'd one in fact.



Actually I'd say EX500 or GS500. Maybe even an EX250

 

[bk6a]

Well, the first really rideable bike i owned was a 1985 500cc honda shadow, and it did everything i asked (started everytime) for 2 years. on the other hand, i was over 220 lbs, and that little bike was really starting to hurt under the weight. this summer, after a 4 year break, i bought a sprint rs. i was nervous about getting a bike with that much displacment, but after riding some 600's with similar horsepower, i think that for a larger person (240 now, sucks to be getting older and fatter) a torque tuned 750 or 1000 may work better than the small displacement bikes.

 

[sportbikebandit]

Re: Excellent Point

You making me tear up...

 

[sportbikebandit]

Re: Excellent Point

Daughter in private university. Another one on the way. Three car insurance payments. Wife doesn't work.....Those of us responsible types have obligations..I am Fiscal conservative Buz unlike W i.e no debt except my house... Which is will be paid off in another 5 years... Maxing out my 401 K. Bad times are coming Buz hang on..save your pennies.

 

[28945]

Irregardless of what entry level machine is purchased in response to much of the valuable input posted here, I strongly believe that presupposing little or no prior cycle maintenance skills on the part of the "entrant", a new machine with warranty and dealer support should be a primary consideration, if the experience is to be truly satisfying.

 

[Aero_Mongoose]

I started with the MSF beginner course in March of '05 and would absolutely recommend it for those just starting. For the next 6 months, my first motorcycle was a semi-stolen 2000 Harley Davidson Sportster 883. This was my father-in-law's little-used bike, so the price was right (free!). Other pros included a friendly power band, great fuel economy, and a seat that was plenty low for my 5'8" frame. On the down side, the 500+ lb weight was a little intimidating to maneuver and the hard mounted motor vibrations made even the shortest freeway rides a numbing experience (not an issue for the '04 models and up). Overall I'd say it was an ok beginner bike; now that they have the vibration knocked down it ought to be pretty good.



I have since moved on to an '05 Ducati Monster S2R. The Suzuki SV650 and Buell XB9SX were in the hunt as well, but I just didn't get excited about them like I did the S2R. Since I was looking for a bike that I wouldn't want to trade for many years, that extra pride of ownership tipped the scales, though I'm sure any of these bikes would suit my needs.



I think the most common mistake I have seen newer riders make (and even some more experienced ones) is the tendency to evaluate displacement in a vacuum. It's not as simple as saying "bigger engine equals more power." If that were the case, then a 400 lb 105+ hp sportbike at 600cc would make a better beginner bike than a 550 lb 45 hp Harley Sportster at 883cc. Why that Harley's got almost 50% greater displacement than the sportbike, so you must be looking to kill yourself if you start there, right? The SV650, S2R, and XB9SX are all about the same in terms of both power and weight, yet their displacements are 650cc, 803cc, and 984cc respectively. There are so many factors that play into a beginner-friendly motor (water vs. air cooled, number of cylinders, cylinder arrangement, etc.) that displacement-centric thinking will rob you of some great options. Subscribe to MO, take advantage of all the backlogged tests and postings on bikes both old and new, and do your homework before you filter your search with unwittingly simplistic and misguided criteria.



Good requirements are based on what you want your bike to DO; only then should you try to interpret what the bike should HAVE.



My long-winded two cents.



Pat LeBeau

 

[m_t_yeo]

--- Pet Peeve On ---



I bought a Thruxton even though I really, really wanted a DL650. 52% of the population are women. Their average height in N.A. is 5'4" with an average inseam of 28". The average inseam for men is 32".



So ... if the seat height of the DL650 is 32", it means that a sizeable minority of men won't be able to comfortably ride it and almost all women won't be able to, either. Why would you design a general purpose bike like the Wee-strom so that it excludes approximately 50% of the possible riding population from ever riding it? To me that seems crazy, especially when there is only one competitor for the women's adventure market - the BMW F650GS. The DL650 comes in a couple of grand cheaper and if Suzuki could drop a couple of inches, they would pretty much corner that market.



They would have gotten my money too, of course, so this could all just be sour grapes.

 

[m_t_yeo]

Where were you when I was first buying? LOL.



I bought a Thruxton (465 lb. - 865 cc) as my first bike and have regretted it ever since. Like the TBS, it is heavy and its weight is all at the top, making it cumbersome and awkward when the weight shifts. I've dropped it twice (small guy, short legs, heavy bike) and have been kicking myself for not buying the Ducati Monster I initially wanted. 80 lbs. lighter, smaller and more balanced ... but I didn't have you for advice back then, I guess.

 

[JOE420SHMO]

Well I have learned (from personal experince)

that your first moto should be first something that your probably going to crash. Second something that youre comfortable with.

 

[stk10759]

Best First bike has to be

1. Cheap, because you won't be sure if you like riding you spend a lot and you may regret it if you never ride seriously

2. Small motor 500cc because your not experienced for something bigger

3. Something that has scratches on it, because your going to add some to it

4. Safe, you don't want a hoopty that's going to get you killed.



Derek

 

[pplassm]

Dual Sport

A dual port or dirt bike is perfect for a beginner, but most beginners won't be seen dead on one for some reason. I guess it doesn't fit their definition of "Motorcycle".

 

[24832]

My vote for the cruiser type bike would go to the Kawasaki Vulcan 500. Parallel twin engine is bullet proof. Powerful enough to deal with the highway and not be quickly outgrown yet forgiving to novice. The only drawbacks are lack of accessories and chain drive.

 

[flatknee]

1981 Yamaha xs 650 - crashed it in my first week of riding after locking the front brake when a cage turned left in front of me. That got me to practice my braking....was able to do controlled dirt track style drifting on the road after that with locking the rear brake...fun! That bike was followed by a 1978

xs 650. Crashed that 2 more times - once with too much gas leaned over while exiting a corner and the once because of sloppy mechanical work on my part.

Followed that with a KZ550. Crashed once in a corner, 2up, not fun....Don't know why...

My advice is less bike or displacement specific. Do this everytime you get a new bike just for the feel of the new machine. Find a big, empty parking lot, and keep practicing. Turning and braking. Particularily, braking at the limits in all kind of situations, straight line, turning and leaned over. Practice smooth throttle inputs, be aware of front and rear weight transfers. When you take it to the street ride with your head and watch all the other idiots. Ride safe.

 

[mnmmelanson]

Best first bike has to be a dual sport used. A DR, KLR or any other. They are fast enough, simple in design, easy to learn how to work on, cheap to run, and can take a beating. They versatile enough to allow the rider to figure out what direction to go for the next purchase.

 

[2536]

My first bike was a 650 Honda NTV with 50.000 km.

Bought it from a guy together with his helmet, jacket and gloves.



50.000 km later (and 2 years) bought a used VFR 750 RC36 II with 30.000 km.



4 years later bought an 800 Fi that still remaisn my bike.

the evolution was gradual and I think this is the way to go.

Never fell (apart from stalling) and still doing 25.000km a year...

 

[jandj_davis]

I have to agree with the 550 NH, seeing as how that is what I drive. But, to be more general about it. I think there are several things about the NH that make it the perfect candidate.

1) I-4. In my opinion, then I-4 power delivery is more beginner friendly than the torque curve of a twin. It teaches good clutch control. Also, as a new rider, I was unnerved by the sound of the engine revving to high heaven. This kept my speeds low and my acceleration reasonable. After a year, I figured out where the power-band was, and since then have had a blast on the bike. I have now owned it for 6 years, and It still keeps me almost satisfied.

2) UJM. The seating position lends itself to good control, while the fact that there is no plastic makes it easy to drop and not feel like dying

3) Age. As I am sure you all know, there is still a huge surplus of mid-80's bikes in the US. They are cheap as dirt and still plenty capable. I think most of them are pretty darn goo looking too.

4) Parts availability. The opportunity to do my own maintenance is a huge factor with my bike purchase. I would probably recommend not going with the shaft drive, since having a chain to clean will help the rider learn to respect and care for his/her mount.

5) Hydraulic Valve lifters!! I can't tell yuou how turned off I am by ducatis that need valve adjustments every 5000 miles. Never having to open the head up for a valve check is pretty freakin' awesome. My next purchase will have to be a Buell, because they seem to be the only ones on this boat.

So, let me sum up. an 80's era UJM, I-4, chain-drive, hydraulic tappets. In this range, any engine size would be pretty easy to learn on, just measure your own skill first and select accordingly.