Broken Rear Seat Screw-Any suggestions?

Step 1: Remove offending part.

Step 2b: Soak remaining motorcycle in seawater for three days.

Step VII: Discard remaining Motorcycle.

Seriously tho - is the bolt a "through-hole", or is it blind?

If through, can you get to the backside with a visegrip and twist it the rest of the way through?

If none of those, can you remove the part containing the broken stub? And, do you know someone with a TIG welder?

If so, you're in Luck. I'll explain further if you can meet both of those requirements.

If I had a hammer...

...I'd hammer early in the morning, on that VTX seat, all over the world...I'd hammer on the fender, I'd hammer on the seat frame, I'd hammer on the bugs, the bees the birds and bushes, all-alll all over this land....

If you can't thread it out, get the appropriately sized easy out and a drill bit, punch and drill the center of the old bolt out, stick the easy out in there and soak with penetrating oil, slowly screw the easy out into the bolt and it should come right out. If you didn't bugger the threads just run a tap through there to clean it up. If the threads are F.U. then either drill and tap it to the next size up or drill and Helicoil it to the original size.

Next time use Blue Lock-tite and less torque on there Flex.......

A trick I use is to grasp the ratchet at the head for small bolts instead of the handle, it's easier to not over tighten that way and the Blue Lock-tite will prevent it from vibrateing out

If all else fails, there's one more trick from the notorious HD fenders that stripped out the seat nuts frequently: drill the old bolt out and push a new one up from below. Then use an acorn nut on top to secure the seat. It's not too hard to get the new bolt up in there IF you have a lift that will let the rear wheel drop out of the fender a bit. Snarli's suggestion is better if you can get the easy-out going, but this tip will work if you can't save the captive nut in the fender.

Remember when you get it fixed up that the correct torque for the seat bolt is snug plus one full turn. That should be perfect.

When you finally get a new bolt in make sure it's at least a grade viii (8.8 metric) and not the crappy stock mild steel. Aircraft quality is best. Stainless steel preferred.

Old Britbike owners already know this.

Thanks - all of your suggestions sound alot easier on the wallet than buying a whole new piece. I'll try punching it out and see if I can't tap a new thread. If I can't I'll probably just take your advice The AirHawk.

If all else fails, there's one more trick from the notorious HD fenders that stripped out the seat nuts frequently: drill the old bolt out and push a new one up from below. Then use an acorn nut on top to secure the seat. It's not too hard to get the new bolt up in there IF you have a lift that will let the rear wheel drop out of the fender a bit. Snarli's suggestion is better if you can get the easy-out going, but this tip will work if you can't save the captive nut in the fender.

seruzawa said:

When you finally get a new bolt in make sure it's at least a grade viii (8.8 metric) and not the crappy stock mild steel. Aircraft quality is best. Stainless steel preferred.

Old Britbike owners already know this.

Click to expand...

Grade M 8.8 is roughly equal to SAE Grade 5. You need M 10.9 or higher to equal SAE Grade 8.

Oops.

The_AirHawk said:

Grade M 8.8 is roughly equal to SAE Grade 5. You need M 10.9 or higher to equal SAE Grade 8.

Click to expand...

Well, even grade 5 is better than stock I'd bet ya.