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Re: 12 Point Bolts....

Yeah, johnnyb you have to clear this issue up. I would personally be very surprised if a car manufacturer, especially a German one, used Torx bolts to secure an engine head. I agree with crankin500, and like I said before, you need a quality Torx bit for this kind of thing. On my Jeep Torx are used extensively, but only for interior and exterior fastening, nothing much in the engine compartment (although the Jeep 4.0 inline six has been replaced with a 5.7L Chevy LT-1 in my jeep.) Torx are not really ideal for high-torque applications as the bits don't stand up to it. It would make more sense if they're simply 12-point bolts, not Torx; is it possible that you're confusing these? Torx sizes are designated by a T and then a number, like T-6, T-8, T-12, T-20, etc, the smaller number being the larger size.....obviously a 12-point bolt is sized like any regular socket, 1/2 inch, 9/16, 10mm, 12mm.

You should post pictures of this.
 

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Wife's Car?!

Dammit, Jim, I'm a doctor not a mechanic!!

I thought you got divorced way back in Bitter Little Man #3 or somewhere in there?

Why isn't she riding? You know that the non-riding gene is dominant (devolution in action), right?

Have you borne any unfortunate non-riding children of this pairing? If so, the Shriners hospitals can help.

As for the Benz...I recommend you begin by breaking down your annual 'salary' (snort, chuckle) into an hourly amount. Then compare your hourly income to the Blue Book value of the car. Realize that this is quite literaly not worth your time, and do something more important...like scratch yourself, and get her a car you *can* work on.

There's a cherry 1970 Monte Carlo SS 454, numbers matching, on eBay right now... Current bid: about $8,500. Probably an even swap for the 190POS. Good Luck.
 

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I always lean toward the spray can/hammer whack solution, but I fail to see how that's gonna help with bolts that have lived their lives in an oil bath situation. Kroil takes too long to get here. Will the CRC stuff work? Does it have to be Coors? Help me dammit...
 

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I am a professional Amish Rake Fighter. I recently had a similar problem on one of my buggies. Have you tried to loosen by hand? Trust in the lord and squeeze and twist really hard. Often some fresh churned butter will help. Are your bolts wooden like mine? This also works on my 2002 Yamaha R1. Which ,as a side note, I recently recieved a citation from an officer of the peace for riding with only my black felt quaker hat. The elders are upset as well as I have been frighening the livestock with my high mount devil shotgun pipes. Good luck brother.
 

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the oil is on the outside, CRC works it's way down the threads between the fastener and the part, it will work it's way through rust and corrosion like ***** through a goose, oil shouldn't be a problem, it has to be original Coors because Coors is all natural, 5% alchohol, and you can drink it by the gallon without a hangover, you'll need a clear head so you don't hit your hand with the hammer.
 

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I was thinking that since this is a Mercedes we are working on, a good German beer might work better.



I know that when I get in a particularly tough spot working on my Ducati, I stop for a glass of Italian red wine, and I have resorted to Japanese beer while working on my Yamaha.



Bob

 

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Re: 12 Point Bolts....

I've seen them used as head bolts from the manufacturer (ford, 2.3 liter 4 cylinder) and, yes, they suck for that application. three bits and one sheared head and I was able to remove the head.
 
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