If the canyons that you intend to carve are close to your home, have smooth pavement, unobstructed veiws of the turns, and no traffic, then a sportbike would be a better tool. If, however you are uncertain what's around the next corner, and would like to travel further than 50 miles without discomfort, go with the naked bike. VWW
Canyon carving machines?
First!
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Skill is the best tool for canyon carving. I would lean more toward finding the bike you like and taking it to the track.
For me, I prefer a twin to an inline for tight roads. So I just pick my favorite twin.
For me, I prefer a twin to an inline for tight roads. So I just pick my favorite twin.
If you are doing more track time get the sportbike. I'd rather have a naked bike for canyon carving just for the extra leverage for those unknowed decreasing radius turns.
Everytime I see your name, I think about this nice black R1150R for sale near me.
Stick with your neked bike for now, and use the money you saved not buying a new bike to spend on all the track time you can get (and extra tires).
Then, when youve flogged the neked to its limits on the track, get a sport bike. Any bike can carry you on the track, its your skill* level that needs to come up to a bikes potential.
(* I'm not implying that you are unskilled just that most riders can't get the max out of the bike they own)
Then, when youve flogged the neked to its limits on the track, get a sport bike. Any bike can carry you on the track, its your skill* level that needs to come up to a bikes potential.
(* I'm not implying that you are unskilled just that most riders can't get the max out of the bike they own)
Get it! One of my riding buddies has one, and I love it. VWW
The best tool for "canyon carving" is the XR/YZ/DRZ/KL of your choice. If you want to go fast around corners on asphalt then take the bike of your choice (your naked will probably be just fine) and find the nearest track program where it's legal, safe, and there are no tickets for going as fast as you want. Just check your ego at the front gate because it WILL take a licking.
Best of Luck.
-sbp
Best of Luck.
-sbp
Having just had my ass handed to me by an old guy GPTB ,probably only a few years older than me, on Harley V-Rod last weekend. I agree with MO's advice. Spend the money on a track school, tires, and track time probably is the way to go... Sport bikes are like computers the minute you buy one it's obsolete...
Get a new GSXR750, a skateboard ramp and don't buckle your straps on your helmet.
Have fun!
Don't forget to go twice as fast as you think you can.
Have fun!
Don't forget to go twice as fast as you think you can.
I would keep the nekkid bike to ride on the street and buy a couple of year old GSXR 600 for a track bike.
Ditto on the helmet strap, be sure to wear baggy shorts and tennis shoes so they'll know you're down wit' da' set
Ditto on the helmet strap, be sure to wear baggy shorts and tennis shoes so they'll know you're down wit' da' set
It Ain't the Tool
Add my name to the "keep-your-old-bike-and-buy-the-track-time" list. If you need to justify this decision, read "It Aint the Tool" by MO guest columnist Fred Rau http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mccontrib/05_Aint_The_Tool/index.motml
Add my name to the "keep-your-old-bike-and-buy-the-track-time" list. If you need to justify this decision, read "It Aint the Tool" by MO guest columnist Fred Rau http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mccontrib/05_Aint_The_Tool/index.motml
KTM Sooper Motard for the canyons and a used CBR600Fi for the track.
Or a street leagal CR500 for both.
Or a street leagal CR500 for both.
Plastic is expensive, clip-ons are a pain and give you no leverage, and riding in a tuck hurts. Get some frame sliders and a windscreen and take your naked bike to the track.
Canyon carver? BMWVWW has a really cherry RD350 that would be just the thing for you. It's only got 5 miles on the odometer!
Failing that your only possible choices are an SV650, Concours or VFR (older one).
Failing that your only possible choices are an SV650, Concours or VFR (older one).
You should stop recommending 2strokes to the newbies. It's better for them if they never learn just how inferior 4-stroke powerplants are for performance riding.
Good point plastic is expensive.
Unfortunately the RD has been sold. However I did recently aquire a pristine RG 500 Gamma with 0 miles on it, as it was only backed out of the garage once by it's previous owner, a 95 year old nun from the Our Lady of Mercy Convent. VWW
I would strongly suggest a track school such as the CLASS schools. Reg Pridmore takes his school all over the country and is the most reasonably priced. He emphasizes street riding techniques and is an accomplished rider and teacher. He also makes you feel very welcome, unlike another "guru" that conducts reasonably priced schools throughout the US. I'm a big CLASS school fan, and based on three previous experiences, not a California Superbike School fan. Depending on your skill level, you can still learn a lot from either.
Something else you might do is a bit of reading. There are a couple of GREAT books out there and several more that are worthwhile. In my opinion, Nick Ienatsch's "Sport Riding Techniques" (ISBN #1893618072) is numero uno. His discussion of maintenance throttle and trailbraking are worth the price of the book on their own merit. However, he really covers every bit of sport riding from the beginning techniques to the most advanced. The next book I would highly recommend is David Hough's "MORE Proficient Motorcycling--Mastering the Ride." (ISBN # 1931993033). Hough discusses how to read the road and it's surfaces better than any other book I know of, and offers excellent advice on riding techniques, gear, visual directional control, etc. After devouring these two, here is a list of other worthwhile books, sort of in order of my preference for whatever that is worth: 1) "Total Control-High Performance Street Riding Techniques." by Lee Parks (ISBN #0760314039). 2) "Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way" by Reg Pridmore (ISBN # 1884313469). and 3) "Twist of the Wrist II" by Keith Code (ISBN # 0965045021).
In my opinion, Keith Code's other two books, the first "Twist of the Wrist" and "Soft Science" are pure garbage. David Hough also has out a book entitled "Proficient Motorcycling." It's a good book, but "MORE Proficient Motorcycling" covers the topics better, with more advanced techniques.
All of these books are available at Amazon.com at good discounts, usually with free shipping if you spend over $25. Hope this helps. Enjoy the ride. Cheers, Jack
Something else you might do is a bit of reading. There are a couple of GREAT books out there and several more that are worthwhile. In my opinion, Nick Ienatsch's "Sport Riding Techniques" (ISBN #1893618072) is numero uno. His discussion of maintenance throttle and trailbraking are worth the price of the book on their own merit. However, he really covers every bit of sport riding from the beginning techniques to the most advanced. The next book I would highly recommend is David Hough's "MORE Proficient Motorcycling--Mastering the Ride." (ISBN # 1931993033). Hough discusses how to read the road and it's surfaces better than any other book I know of, and offers excellent advice on riding techniques, gear, visual directional control, etc. After devouring these two, here is a list of other worthwhile books, sort of in order of my preference for whatever that is worth: 1) "Total Control-High Performance Street Riding Techniques." by Lee Parks (ISBN #0760314039). 2) "Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way" by Reg Pridmore (ISBN # 1884313469). and 3) "Twist of the Wrist II" by Keith Code (ISBN # 0965045021).
In my opinion, Keith Code's other two books, the first "Twist of the Wrist" and "Soft Science" are pure garbage. David Hough also has out a book entitled "Proficient Motorcycling." It's a good book, but "MORE Proficient Motorcycling" covers the topics better, with more advanced techniques.
All of these books are available at Amazon.com at good discounts, usually with free shipping if you spend over $25. Hope this helps. Enjoy the ride. Cheers, Jack
Unless the track you're riding has SUVs cirulating in the opposite direction the sportbike would be better for getting weight over the front wheel and shifting your weight from side to side.
In the canyons, you can have as much fun avoiding SUVs, rocks, sand, water and other debris on a sidevalve Harley as on a GSXR.
In the canyons, you can have as much fun avoiding SUVs, rocks, sand, water and other debris on a sidevalve Harley as on a GSXR.
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