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Clunky shifting?

15823 Views 27 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  MOKE1K
yes, you should get rid of it immediately, give it to me!
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That seems rather backwards. My SV clunks into first when cold, but after a few minutes it's mostly fine, except for throwing me out of gear under hard acceleration. Even more strange is the first three being the smooth gears.

I don't have an answer for you, but if the dealer uses the actual words of 'that is normal' it is the moment alarm bells start going off in my head. It's basically the equivalent of 'well that has never happened before', something which gets used frequently in my industry, and which generally means they've got no idea and possibly little interest in figuring it out. I bet if your bike wasn't under warranty they'd be clamoring to tear it apart.
Being thrown out of gear under acceleration is a sign that the dogs on the tranny gear are being worn round. You are probably also bending a shift fork. Better tear it down and look at it before something major blows.
Any BMW problem can be solved. You just have to Bring More Wampum.
what is wampum might that be related to the BIG A** hammer I have a neighbor with a k75? and he says it can always be fixed with his big hammer. P.S. I refuse to allow him to work on my vfr for fear he could damage a fairing
what is wampum might that be related to the BIG A** hammer I have a neighbor with a k75? and he says it can always be fixed with his big hammer. P.S. I refuse to allow him to work on my vfr for fear he could damage a fairing
Those hammers are easily available in any HD toolkit.
I've never owned a BMW and am not familiar with them mechanically, but I won't let that stop me from offering advice.

My 2002 Triumph gearbox clunks a little when shifting into lower gears when cold, but clunks more when warm. I think this is normal. I don't think you have a problem.

When the gearbox is worn it won't shift into gear and won't stay in gear, in other words it pops out of gear. If those things aren't happening then the gearbox/clutch is working fine.

What you can do to reduce the clunky shifting.

1) Change the oil. The gearbox works better with fresh oil and better with synthetic oil.

2) Take out all but just the tiniest fraction of slack out of the clutch cable. If you have a hydraulic clutch you're on your own - I don't know anything about these, but if the shifting has gotten worse there may be something wrong with the hydraulic clutch mechanism. Also, adjust the clutch if it has an adjuster - my Triumph doesn't.

3) Don't short shift in lower gears. Rev the engine up a bit before shifting.

4) Shift fast and pre-load the shifter - that is, put a little pressure on the shift lever before shifting and then shift quickly.

5) Don't down shift. You should be able to shift from 6th to neutral as you're slowing to a stop without letting out the clutch.

6) When down-shifting a gear or two as you enter a corner rev the engine up to match the gearbox speed for the gear you're shifting into.
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You are using muenster (or goulda) in the gear box. Switch to havarti.
1. Make sure the release mechanism is adjusted properly.

2. Make sure you are using a good oil and that your current oil is not due for a change. Diesel-specific oils and some synthetics can also help.

3. Make sure the foot shift mechanism is clean and properly lubricated.

I am unfamiliar with current generation K bikes but my K100 uses a HUGE single plate dry clutch. If they still use this style clutch check the throw on the clutch lever. If there is not enough throw the first few gears will feel "notchy". If there is enough throw then check the cable going to the transmission. If they use a wet clutch now ask a dealer if your bike model has throwout bearing issues. Being a shaft bike you will always feel a slightly notchy shift on BMW products. It's a by-product of the way that BMW transmissions are made. You are right in questioning the feel. It's shouldn't feel like you have to put major effort into hitting or keeping a gear. But there must be a positive shift to engage the transmission properly.
If the shifting is OK when cold, but notchy when hot, (or vice versa), my thoughts are that it points to the clutch. Clutch plates expand when hot, causing sticking or grabbiness, clutch actuators, (eg pushrods) expand when hot causing early actuation or even slippage. To verify the problem may bethe clutch, when your shifting is notchy, does the bike seem to jump forward when you are stopped with the clutch fully puilled in, and you shift from neutral to first? I am guessing that your clutch is hydraulic, does bleeding help? If is cable operated, does adjusting help when shifting becomes notchy? Can you feel the clutch engaging earlier in relation to how far you release the lever when shifting is notchy?

I suppose heat expansion could also affect dogs and forks, but not likely as all are the same material (usually) and would expand at the same rate, where as clutches and clutch operating materials are made from many different types of metals, alloys, non metallic materials and liquids (oil and hydraulic fluids).
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Thanks for the input.After the new england trip I plan to insist that the tech at my dealer test ride the bike and then see if he still thinks that its'' normal''.
Is there anyone out there that owns a 06 k1200gt.I sure would like to hear from somebody that can give me their experience. For the record my friend has the same bike. I feel the same problem with his bike. Thanks to all for your help. I have some Cheese wizz on order. thanks
just had a oil serviced before the Utah trip.
bmw have recently switched to gorgonzola or at a stretch stilton as the recommended products
The first time it happened was when I banged the bottom of the redline in fourth. I chalked that up as a "feature". Two other times it has happened in the past month however, both in second, and well short of red. It's been on my list of things to have looked at but as the SV is my only mode of transit other than two feet and the MTA bus line, it is hard to give it up for a couple days. At least Marina Suzuki is within walking distance of the office.
Also, as this was a former track bike in the past, and even though there was only 5400 miles on it when acquired, I've been thinking of replacing the clutch plates. Being the sort of person I am doing the work myself would be preferable to a dealer but don't know nearly enough to do it and feel competent that my machine hasn't been turned into a timebomb.

If someone in LA/OC wants to trade some knowledge and time in exchange for food and booze, throw me a message.
The problem is that you bought a crap bike. From the history you presented, and I am happy you opened up this honestly to us, I can see this is an ongoing problem.

- cruiz-euro
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