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You are right about bans on motorcycles in Beijing and other flat land cities. I only saw a few small capacity cucles and mopeds and a couple of old Ural type bikes with side cars (Russian copies of BMW).

In Guangzhou and other hilly cities in the interior there were a bunch of small capacity motorcycles and mopeds.

It is possible to get a motorcycle permit in Beijing if you know someone and are willing to pay. In addition if you are a party member or a kid of one then no sweat!

I saw a Chinese Ural and sidecar with a huge thumping stereo blasting up and down Chang An street in BJ. They were party member kids I was told.
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