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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Yesterday I purchased a GSXR 750, 1997 model but the clutch is incredibly heavy, a nightmare around town. I know absolutely nothing when it comes to motorcycle maintenance or repairs, but the garage I got it from did say the the previous owner may have changed the bearings in the clutch or something and that I would need to get this changed back to genuine Suzuki bearings?

I was hoping someone could explain this to me and what I need to get exactly as I would like to start learning and taking care of my own motorcycle maintenance.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!
 

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The Toad
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They probably meant the clutch springs. That's an easy job to do. Buy a manual and follow the directions. You'll need a manual anyhow. No, I mean it. Getting at the clutch is easy.

While you are at it ensure that the hydraulic clutch actuation system is not full of crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So it is an easy thing to do? What exactly do I need to order to do this? Any specific tools? Sorry for sounding so novice I just want to make sure I get what I need.
 

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MODERATOR X
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Wait a second, have you checked the clutch cable? Lube that sucker and try again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was told by the garage that the guy changed the springs and this was why... I could check the clutch cable too when I get the manual! I am sure that will all be in there too =) Have ordered a Haynes manual for my bike so will go through that. Thanks for the replies though! Will try lubing the clutch cable and if that doesnt help will order new springs =)
 

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Dont be afraid after looking at the expanded image of the clutch assembly in your spiffy new manual. Wet Clutches are like a layer cake, just with more than two layers. Clutch cable you should be able to trace with your eyeball. Take it loose at both ends and see if it slides easily inside the housing (should have a little friction but not a lot). If its stiff slide it all the way to one end, lube the exposed cable with recommended lubricant and slide it all the way back, lube other end, Repeat. Work it back and forth (insert rude comment here)until its sliding nicely in the cable houseing. Reinstall cable. If clutch is still HeMan strength replace springs or go to the gym.
 

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Dont be afraid after looking at the expanded image of the clutch assembly in your spiffy new manual. Wet Clutches are like a layer cake, just with more than two layers. Clutch cable you should be able to trace with your eyeball. Take it loose at both ends and see if it slides easily inside the housing (should have a little friction but not a lot). If its stiff slide it all the way to one end, lube the exposed cable with recommended lubricant and slide it all the way back, lube other end, Repeat. Work it back and forth (insert rude comment here)until its sliding nicely in the cable houseing. Reinstall cable. If clutch is still HeMan strength replace springs or go to the gym.
Man, that sounded easy. Makes me want to change the clutch plate in my 21yo K100. You know, the BIG single plate job that looks like it's out of a 3 series. The one that's in that transmission that you have to disassemble the back half of the bike to get at. On second thought, I'll be lazy and let some body else take care of that task. I will lend my talents to smoking a cigar and watching while giving my professional opinion and trying to make their job easier for them. That's the ticket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dont be afraid after looking at the expanded image of the clutch assembly in your spiffy new manual. Wet Clutches are like a layer cake, just with more than two layers. Clutch cable you should be able to trace with your eyeball. Take it loose at both ends and see if it slides easily inside the housing (should have a little friction but not a lot). If its stiff slide it all the way to one end, lube the exposed cable with recommended lubricant and slide it all the way back, lube other end, Repeat. Work it back and forth (insert rude comment here)until its sliding nicely in the cable houseing. Reinstall cable. If clutch is still HeMan strength replace springs or go to the gym.
I Will definately give that a go. Is it fairly easy to remove the cable and put it back? Am guessing the manual will recommend the lube to use? I gave it a ride up the M11/M25 today but even without gloves its still a sucker to pull! On long trips/town journeys that will just hurt...
 

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Man, that sounded easy. Makes me want to change the clutch plate in my 21yo K100. You know, the BIG single plate job that looks like it's out of a 3 series. The one that's in that transmission that you have to disassemble the back half of the bike to get at. On second thought, I'll be lazy and let some body else take care of that task. I will lend my talents to smoking a cigar and watching while giving my professional opinion and trying to make their job easier for them. That's the ticket.
I have 36k on my stock K12RS clutch and its getting due. Your preaching to the choir. Ive seen the CHP RT's on cherry pickers in the dealers shop, didnt look like fun. Anything that one of the first steps is "Split Motorcycle in half" doesnt sound like something I'm going to try in the little space I have in my garage.
 

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I Will definately give that a go. Is it fairly easy to remove the cable and put it back? Am guessing the manual will recommend the lube to use? I gave it a ride up the M11/M25 today but even without gloves its still a sucker to pull! On long trips/town journeys that will just hurt...
shouldnt be too bad, take the little bolt that the lever hinges on out so you can slide the fat blob of lead (its not lead but you'll see what I mean) out of the lever, twist off the adjuster from the lever base and one end is free. Look at the other end and disconnect from the motor, do not yank the cable off the bike unless you really like threading it back. Ive used white grease and even "phil" (bicycle chain lube) on my old dirt bikes. New bike has a hydralic clutch so no cable for me anymore... Call the shop, I assume white grease.

Cuddy, what do you recommend o wise sage?
 

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The Toad
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After freeing the ends of the cable see how easy the cable moves. It should pull back and forth quite easily. If it's hard to pull you should spray penetrating oil in it and see if it loosens up. If you you can work some grease into it or just squirt in some 30w oil.. either should work. At this time if the cable is okay make a note to buy a replacement cable to carry with you. They can break at any time so carrying a spare should be a regular action by anyone. There is nothing like having a broken cable when you have 20 miles of stop and go and urban traffic lights to deal with. Trust me on this. I carry a spare cable for every bike I own. It's like carrying a spare fan belt for your car.

If the cable is okay then your clutch springs are likely the culprit. Extra stiff springs are a complete waste of time for anything but serious track riding. People put them on for "fun" but they are pointless for normal riding.... i.e. riding that won't get you killed.

A manual will show you how to replace them. It's not difficult. I'm not going to explain because you really need to get a manual. Did you get that you should get a manual?
 

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I'd take it to the shop you bought it from, they seem to know a little history about the bike. Have them put everything back stock for you. Watch if you can, first time around it's best to pay someone else do it or have a knowledgeable friend show you how. Fumbling around without knowing what you are doing, even with a manual is a recipe for riding the bus while your bike sits in pieces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey all, well low and behold the cable did actually snap. The cable has now been replaced and is working fine, still a bit heavy because of the springs but it's bearable. Thanks for all your help!
 
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