Ok, ok, if you must:
Also when you removed the baffle did it open the whole pipe or is there that tiny opening as well? Thanks again.
BigBram
Ok BigBram, here's the secret exhaust opening technique that has been handed down from father to son for many generations:
Get a tape measure and get a rough idea of the inside diameter of the exhaust pipe. It's probably in the 3/4" range, but they vary.
Go to Home Despot and buy:
1 4' length of allthread rod, 3/8" in diameter.
2 plain steel nuts that fit the allthread and matching flat washers.
1 nylock nut that fit the allthread.
1 hole saw bit just slightly smaller than the inside diameter of your exhaust pipe. You may want to get a set of 4 holesaws so you can work on domestic bikes too.
Thread the two plain nuts about 1.5" to 2" down the allthread. Drop a flat washer over them. Tighten the nuts against each other so they're locked.
Slide or thread the hole saw bit down the allthread till it hits the two nuts. Drop the other flat washer down the allthread and thread the nylock nut down till it tightens against the two locked nuts. A deep socket is needed for this. Adjust the three nuts so that you have a clear opening down the holesaw bit for the exhaust baffle cutouts to fit into.
Take the exhaust pipe off the bike and put it in the vise or have your pal hold it. Put the allthread and bit in a drill, run it down the pipe till you hit the baffle, and let'er rip. Usually the baffle is just a little plate of thin metal and cuts right out.
When the first baffle cuts out, pull out the allthread and dig out the metal with a screwdriver. Turn the pipe around and have at it from the other direction. You should be able to see right through the pipe when you're done.
Now you're all set to spend endless hours readjusting your fuel and ignition systems to try to compensate for the total loss of backpressure in the exhaust. But, the authoritative bark of your pipes will more than compensate for that.