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And a few more suggestions:
  • Purchase the service manual for your bike.
  • Look 1-2 maintenance periods ahead, pick things
    you can do, and get the tools to do them. Eg, if you have the tools and time to do oil, trans, plugs and clutch adjustment, you'll probably cut about 1/2 off the cost of your 10K maintenance. Look at the $/shop-hour charge on your last bill,
    then shop for tools accordingly.
  • Though I highly recommend having your
    own stands/lift, it is possible to rig something up. Common
    setup is using a stepladder and rope/pulleys to serve as a rear
    lift. [Though again, a PitBull or other stand is a good investment and makes things a one-person job -- personally I have a PitBull rear stand and a $75 hydralic lift.]
 

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Personally, I've never worried about crush washers, and I've never had anything but a drip or two come from the drain plug. The first one I lost, I had only one vehical, so I reassembled everything and went on my way. Having all intentions to get to the dealler to replace it. Forgot about it untill the next oil change. Afew hundred K miles on many bikes and I don't think its been missed by any of them.

But it must have some engineering significance, or they would not put it on the bike. The real world doesn't seem to care.
 

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Old timers trick

Cut it with gas and use it to stain wood (fences, garden timbers, decks but read on), It takes afew days to dry out, but it helps preserve the wood.

Try it on an inconspicuous spot to see if ya like the color.

Might cheese off some enviromentalist but it does work.
 

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Re: Old timers trick

I cut some crankcase drainings with gas, smeared it on the wood lawn furniture. Now, when it gets hot outside, the wood starts seeping old dank motor oil. Smells even worse than gear lube. Pee-u. Can't put varnish on it, either. So much for that idea...
 

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Great article, Yossef. Thanks.



I have generally made it a point to take apart old filters to see what's trapped in there and that experience has convinced me of the value of always changing filter with oil.



Many modern filters have a knurled end which allows the use of an inexpensive socket attachment to spin the filter off. Some high end filters (K&N comes immediately to mind) have a drilled fitting on the end (for safety wire) that makes it even easier.



On many modern sportbikes it is possible to get to the filter without removing the fairing lowers if you can get the front of the bike up with either a front stand or a lift. All I ever have had to do with any of my Hondas or Yamaha's equipped with lowers is to split the bottom of the lowers and snake the filters around the headers. This makes a 1 hour job into a 15 minute job if it works.



Well done.



martin
 

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I intend to read this article - no really!



I'm too lazy to replace crush washers or o-rings on drain plugs. I have cut new washers out of gasket material when needed to fill the gap on the plug. But, what I never fail to do after the plug has been in and out a few times is to smear a layer of red silicone glue - the high temperature stuff - on the plug and just snug up the plug. As long as the drain hole is clean and free of oil it sticks very well. I've never lost a drain plug this way and don't have to over-tighten the plug.



I also use advert literature the kind printed on coated paper and cut to fit the oil filter drain area to direct the oil away from the bike and into the oil pan. Paper towels picks up the rest.



I've had no problem with Fram oil filters - on my Harley or Speed 4.



As for oil. I have had trouble with synthetic oil of the correct weight (viscosity) in my Harley. I got lifter noise that went away when I switched back to HD oil. V-twin oil from the auto parts store would work too, but costs the same.



I now use Mobil 1 car oil (15w 50) in my Triumph Speed 4 with no problems at all after 8000 miles. Triumph specifies Mobil1 15w50 anyway.



Oil additives are probably useless, except on older air-cooled engines when they wear out. You can thicken the oil and quiet the motor a bit and get a few thousand more miles out of them.



Gear box oil - just use the correct viscosity gear oil available anywhere. Over fill the gear box by about 20%. Primaries are even more forgiving - just about any oil seems to work in them. But stick with the correct viscosity is the best bet.
 

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Re: How not To Change Your Oil

Not to mention Zeiner Diodes...
 

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Ok, three things....

1) Life's too short to use cheap tools. If you think tools are too expensive, wait till you see how expensive the thing you just rounded-off is.

2) A nifty trick for Ducati's is that the exhaust header tends to run right underneath the drain plug. Oil will cover that pipe and smoke like h*ll as it burns off. A friend pointed out a strategically placed piece of tin-foil makes a disposable shield to prevent smokage.

3) Who's going to be the first to try this with a Ducati???... ;-)

http://www.timothypilgrim.com/bike/japengines.jpg

--Chris ('01 Ducati S4 Senna)
 
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