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The Toad
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17,458 Posts
You need to get a schematic. Then you need to start at the positive terminal of the battery and ensure you have power to the input of the ignition switch. If you have power at the switch input but no power from the outputs then the switch is bad. Somewhere if you keep testing you will find a bad connection or broken wire.

You may also simply have gotten a connection wet. You may need to pull the various plastic plugs apart and blow them out.

Remember that the water supply is not distilled water. If you get the wrong things wet the impurities in the water can cause short circuits and phantom grounds. Sometimes washing everything off with distilled water (which does not conduct electricity, by the way) will clean off the mineral deposits left by tap water. I used to fix old expensive keyboards by washing them in distilled water many years ago before they went down to the low prices today.

It's smart to wash a bike off in those places that have the "spotless rinse" function. That water is relatively low in impurities.
 

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The Toad
Joined
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17,458 Posts
It seemed strange that everything went dead, but all the most likely components tested OK, or so I thought. It turned out to be a combination of a bad battery and bad battery charger. What made it even harder to figure out was that the battery was putting out 11.7 volts, which was enough to light up my test light, but not enough volts to light up any of lights on the bike.:confused:

Replaced the battery and my battery charger, and I'm back on the road.

Thanks to all who responded with suggestions.:cool:
A weak battery may read okay on voltage because the voltmeter does not load the battery, i.e. it doesn't use any current. As soon as you turn on the key the draw from the circuit overwhelms the battery's ability to drive the circuit and the voltage plummets. That's why a battery can read "okay" but won't drive anything.
 
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