all of the sv650 fanatics out there can be happy, they finally got an article they can sink their teeth into. No offense, I'll stick with my fz1. Someone my size needs all the horsepower they can get.
Great article, champ. I gotta wonder, tho, what we are going to read when you have completed your time there at MO??
Nicely worded, I can see exactly what your perspective is, and overall, I have enjoyed reading your stories. I dare say this will encourage others to get into the modifications market; improve and bring back up to scratch their trusty steeds. (you hear that? he called me a Steed!)
Gotta recommend braided brake lines: i put a set of Goodridges (2line sys) on my 98 zx6r, and was nothing but impressed by the result. Less lever travel, consistent results, no fade (that I can notice), and now all i gotta do is dump these crappy BT010s! No matter how hot i get them, they won't let me stoppy; quite unlike them there basic D207s I had last time.
On that point: anyone got an opinion (yeah i know, everyone has one) on D207GPs vs D208s?
But really, can anyone tell me why my zx6-r is still (comfortably) on the original chain and sprockets with 55,000 km (34,000 miles) on the clock? It can't be lack of wheelie/track abuse.
What is normal for someone in a sub-tropical climate? Anyone?
I love articles like this one, realistic bikes and realistic modifications. Now, can you show us some relatively basic mods to breath some life into the SV?
In order of effectiveness these are the best SV-650 mods you can make:
1.) Race Tech Gold Valves + Heavier Fork Springs.
2.) Ohlins, Penske, or Fox rear shock
3.) Jet Kit
4.) (this is a freebie) Remove the foam sound absorption mat from the underside of the tank, cut the snorkel (the tube in the center)out of your stock air filter, get two small nuts to place between the frame and the tank mounting tabs (use them like extra thick washers to prop up the front of the tank, when you thread the mounting bolts thru them) these mods significantly improve breathing.
5.) Aftermarket Exhaust (HMF or Akrapovic)
6.) A set of rearsets (the stock pegs seriously limit your cornering ability)
7.) Racing brake pads, braided lines, Motul Racing 600 brake fluid (bleed and replace often)
(this is a freebie) Remove the foam sound absorption mat from the underside of the tank, cut the snorkel (the tube in the center)out of your stock air filter, get two small nuts to place between the frame and the tank mounting tabs (use them like extra thick washers to prop up the front of the tank, when you thread the mounting bolts thru them) these mods significantly improve breathing.
You got to remember, El Flaco is coming out of the Pacific Northwest, which is (I'm pretty sure) the only temperate rain forest in the world. I mean, it rains there more than it is clear. His chain probably takes more abuse from the weather in 15,000 miles than most do in 30,000.
Chain life varies a lot, I guess. I lube mine after every ride longer than 2 hours (actual on bike time) in length or 200 miles in distance.
I'm thinking of trading in my Ducati M750 for an SV-650 straight up, if I can convince the finance company and dealer to swap me. What are the maintenance schedlues on an SV?
Glad you got a much better bike out of the deal but what took so long to do it? Ever since doing the GV mod to my CB750 I've made sure to redo both ends of the suspension within the first couple of months at most.
I realize a Fox etc. shock costs a bit of $$$ but for those who are cheap, consider replacing the stock spring with a unit that is actually rated for your weight. The japanese companies apparently think we're all 145lbs. If to get proper rider sag you're past the 3rd adjustment position on the collar get a stiffer spring. It's a quick $100 and makes a huge difference.
15~20k is about par for the course in the Seattle area, riding in the rain and muck really seems shortens chain life, interestingly enough tires last alot longer because it's only hot (80's +) for a month or two a year, I have 18k on a set of macadam 90's and they still have some tread left, not much left on the sides though,
Crappy BT010's? you are nuts! They are some of the best tires my friends and I have ever used on the street. Over 100 years worth of experience between 4 very fast guys! Get a clue!
P.S. mine gets oil and filter about every 1,500 miles, but it sees a lot of race duty.
Additional note* Mine doesn't seem to like Mobil One 4T Motorcycle oil, it seems to miss shifts under race conditions. I've switched to Pro Honda HP-4 and the shifting has improved.
Thought you SV riders might find this interesting. The #1 plate in WMRRA {Washington State} for 2002 was Allen Shwinn. He raced two SV650's. One was supersport spec. the other was superbike. The modified SV made 90 HP. I watched him repeatedly beat every twin In the club {748, TL1000, RC51}etc. The supersport SV was amazing to. www.sbmotorsports.com. can give you more info. on how the bike's were set up.
All i can tell you is what I have experienced. If i find that they don't work for my style, what i am i gonna do? Not going to stay with them when I know that the D207s please me more, am I? Remember Simon Crafar and his switch to Michelins? (Not that I am anything like as good as him)
What I mentioned with the stoppy is not the only prob, in case you were wondering. The dunlops just seemed more progressive in the let-go (wider envelope) but with just as much grip (if not more) right to the edge, and a better wear life, for me who does a trackday about every two months, and does not own any other vehicle.
You say the BT010s are "some of the best" street tyres. Could you recommend any others, for someone a willing to experiment, but with long arms and shallow pockets?
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