I don't change my tires or recalibrate the TPS on my ECM but I do everything else myself. Good maintenance recordkeeping is your best friend if you do your own wrenching and ever need to make a warranty claim.
Congrats! Aspiring to be your own wrench is an investment in yourself. Like rider education, you can transfer what you learn to your next bike.
First, be realistic. Only you know what your mechanical abilities are. Most things can be done at home with a good place to work, the right tools and some dilligence, but getting in over your head can mean lots of downtime and additional expense if you need a shop to rescue you.
As for service info:
Of course your owners manual will have the basics like oil and filter change intervals.
The official factory service manual is usually a good investment. These run around $50 - $70. The Suzuki rags are generally well done. Clymer and Haynes manuals can vary in quality, but it never hurts to have additional perspective.
Invest some of that cash you'll be saving on shop fees on some quality tools. Sears is your friend Sometimes specialized factory service tools are invaluable, other times a few regular tools and some ingenuity are just as good.
Find a good GSXR community. There's probably several on the Internet - yahoogroups.com is a good place to start. Many communities have bad "signal to noise" ratios (off topic threads, flame wars, etc), but a good one can offer an incredible amount of knowledge and can be your best source of info. There may be a club in your area you can join too. Of course with a bike like that, just going to a track day might net you some handy friends ;-)
BTW - If you are interested in the extended warranty extension, try haggling with your dealer. They might come down substantially. $1500 seems steep on a bike that shouldn't give you much grief if properly cared for.
I have had my Honda Valkyrie for almost a year and a half, put 9,000 miles on it. It has not seen the dealer since the day I bought it. With the help of the shop manual and the VRCC (Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club) tech board...even someone as mechanically limited as myself can keep her running well.
Ask yourself this question-"would you rather leave your ride in the hands of some young kids who are learning on your bike, or do the job yourself and know it was done right, with TLC"?
I realize there are some good, experienced bike mechanics out there...but they are rare in my opinion. Also, they are under a time restraint to get the job done (quick is better) whereas you can take your good old time. Think about it.
How-to articles were once a motomag staple, but no longer. When I got serious about bikes in the early '80s, I found everything I needed in Joe Minton's Motorcyclist articles (along with a shop manual). Shim-type valve adjustment, carb synch, brake maintenance, fork tweaks, etc. etc. were all covered.
Motorcyclist and Sport Rider are the only mags that regularly run how-to articles, and they archive them on their websites. The latter's Andrew Trevitt tackles moderately difficult tasks and describes them particularly well. Motorcyclist devotes too little space to their "How-To" column to make it useful for more involved tasks. In 2002, for example, they described in 750 words and 9 small photos how to check valve clearances but not how to adjust them. Duh.
For principles of operation and general workshop procedures get Hugo Wilson's Motorcycle Owner's Manual. It's an inexpensive little book but well-written and lavishly illustrated with color photos. You'll find it at the usual places.
Consider the factory shop manual your bible. Follow the maintenance schedule, pay close attention to minutiae such as torque specs, cable routing diagrams, and disassembly sequences. Highlight info you find important and use the margins for notes to make a job easier next time.
To prevent "leftover" parts, meticulously set fasteners aside after removing them. I use ice-cube trays and fill the little pockets with fasteners in the order I removed them and cover and label them with masking tape so I know exactly what goes where at reassembly time. I currently have 2 entire trays filled with ST1100 parts while I do 32,000 mile service and repair a coolant leak.
Be prepared to take a lot of time to do stuff at first. Never tackle an ambitious job on a tight deadline. You don't want to take off on a long trip and find out the hard way that, in haste, you forgot to torque the calipers.
I find working on my own bike very fulfilling and Zen-like. I do the valve shims, cam chain, wheel bearings, tire changing, carb cleaning and synching, and anything else that comes up. I do this on my wife's 4 cylinder 89' yamaha Radian 600YX and everything so far on my Harley and it's got about 32,000 of my miles on it. Make sure you always have a good shop manual on hand and realize that it may take a little bit reading and re-reading before you understand what the writer is saying. Sometimes you'll find that you'll need to go to the dealer and clarify things that you don't quite understand with their mechanic. Before you do that make sure that you have tried to understand it through the shop manual so that you can talk intelligently with the mechanic. Valve shim clearance is really easy once you go through it the first time. Carb synching takes specialized tools but since the Suzuki has fuel injection you won't have anything to synch. Tire changing can be done if you buy some good tire irons at a Tractor Supply Store. Break the beads with a large vice. I do it with some sweat but it gets the job done. I balance by supporting the changed wheel on the axil between two old chairs and hand spinning. You might want someone with a spin balancer to do this if you are running high speeds. Good luck and feel the ZEN.
I have worked at dealerships and have to agree. Extended warranties are not really an effective expenditure in most cases. They buy peace of mind, except when you buy one for an unreliable motorcycle. Since Japanese bikes are generally as reliable as doorstops, the extended warrantee makes little sense. When Japanese bikes aren't reliable, the manufacturer usually makes good on the problem. My experience with other brands has not been as positive, except, strangely enough, for Ducati, which stands behind their bikes. As for the cost of the extended warrranty, I think that $1500 is excessive. Last I remember, it should be $750 or less. Doing the scheduled maintenance isn't that tough, except for the valve adjustment. The GSXRs are shim/bucket and only need it every 15,000 miles, so you may want to find a mechanic for that job. But make sure it's not some kid who is inexperienced, or a mechanic who is rushed.
How often and under what circumstances do you find it necessary to synch the carbs? Does minor tweaking, i.e. shimming the needles or installing a jet kit require that the carbs be checked and/or synched? (Well, perhaps a jet kit isn't minor tweaking)...do you do it every so often (mileage) even if you haven't adjusted them? What brand/model synching tool do you use? I have limited experience working with the carbs but I somehow find them to be very intriguing and I'd like to get my elbows in a little deeper but I'm worried that I might really send things into the FUBAR department without synching them afterwards. Any help would be appreciated.
I'll add my voice to those who've suggested that you get an OEM shop manual. You can get one inexpensively through ebay for nearly any bike or pirate one in PDF format from any of several websites that a perfunctory GOOGLE search will scare up for you.
I'd also suggest that you begine doing an ebay search on your bike for parts, etc. once a week or so. You have to learn how ebay works and develop a feel for who's good to deal with and who isn't but I've gotten some incredible deals there. I bought an entire engine for my FZR400 for $225 delivered to my front door that was pristine and runs like a champ even under racing stress.
Finally get some tools. Buy once, cry once. You'll need a laptop and Power Commander for fine tuning fuel management and ignition parameters (I recommend one of these very highly). A lift is almost a necessity. I built my own and I don't know how I lived without one before. I also have a tire changing stand which I think is a helluva investment. Get yourself front and rear wheel stands and an ATV jack (you can buy a great one at CHECKERS for about $50). If you really want to make your life easy get an additional front stand that will lift the bike at the lower triple clamp.
Good enough tools are not always the most expensive. I can buy an awful lot of Craftsman wrenches for what a set of Mac's costs. If there is a Harbor Freight near where you live they have some very servicable items there cheap as long as you know what's good and what isn't. The cool things about bikes is that they are light and relatively simple to service. This means that you don't need big, ass-whopping impact wrenches, engine stands, and million dollar computers like you do for cars and light trucks. And it's really nice to be able to lift your rebuilt engine off your work bench and carry it over to the bike all by yourself.
Good luck. I respect anyone who wrenches on their ride. I quite agree with the poster above who alluded to the Zen qualities in doing this. You will love your Gixxer even more after tearing into it a few times. I think that working on a bike reveals it's character to at least as much as riding. That's one of the reasons that even though I'm a sportbike guy I like Hogs - they are truly fun to tinker with.
I bought a 750 Virago in 1982. Kept it for 8 years, and I did all my own maint. The Factory manual is a must. A good relationship with the guys at the shop doesn't hurt. If you are spending money there, they will talk to you and answer your questions. If you get some good info off the net, share it with them. I sold my bike in '90. It had 77k miles and no problems. It was still running strong in '95. Take your time, double check your work, keep good records.
I bought a mercury carb stic (~30 bucks) that allows for tuning 4 carbs at once. Mercury is reportably very toxic so you might opt for vacuum gauge carb synch of which I'm not sure of the cost. Anyway, the carb synch tool comes with directions and the shop manuals tell how to do it also. You just connect the vacuum tubes from the sychronizing tool to the vacuum ports on the intake manifolds. Then follow the directions in the shop manual. Before you take the time to synch the carbs you should adjust the valve clearance, adjust the cam chain and reset the pilot screws to get a little richer idle mixture. After do these things then synch. The pilot screws are usually under some plugs that you'll need to remove by drilling little holes, inserting a sheet metal screw and pulling out the plugs. Once you get at the pilot screws then you lightly screw in all the way until you bottom out (very lightly bottom out!). Then screw out exactly 3 complete 360 degree turns and this will give your idle a richer mixture. The Yamaha idles great since I did this and the carb synching. Good luck.
There used to be online places where you could get substantial discounts for OEM engine/transmission parts. However I was looking today and found only a few places offering OEM parts and these were "cycle-parts.com" whose prices are only slightly lower and "bike-bandit" whose prices were higher than dealer prices.
Maybe someone has a link to a place where you can get decent discounts for OEM parts.
TRy Zanotti Motors in Pennsylvania. They have a web site (it's either www.zanottimotors.com or www.zanottimotor.com). I got lots of OEM Yamaha parts for an older bike from them. Call them up and talk to John. Their prices were always discounted, great, fast service and they are knowledgeable. You will not talk to some desk jockey who has no idea what you are talking about.
Six-point sockets are your friend. With few exceptions, a 1/2-inch socket wrench may not be. Become proficient in the use of anti-seize, loc-tite, and sealing compound for bolts; inserting bolts "dry" can be a very bad thing. You will be amazed at the difference anti-seize makes on the oil drain plug, for instance.
Always set aside more time than you think you'll possibly need the first time you try anything. Always have a second vehicle available for running to either the shop for parts or Sears for tools; avoiding the second trip and trying to make do with what you have will invariably make the first trip necessary - usually combined with the second stop on the way home anyway. That absolutely SUCKS when it's a cheap part you just destroyed, but it has a two-week delivery time, and it's not something your bike can live without (the aforementioned oil drain plug, for instance).
... on a 1981 XS1100 Special, no less. Hence the wait on the parts.
That experience encompassed most of the things I spewed about - 12-point socket damn near rounded the bolt off, 1/2-inch ratchet with a 12-point almost finished the job, hammering on the handle of the 1/2-inch ratchet DID finish the bolt off. Vise-Grips and hammer got the job done, but the bike sat there afterwards and I swear it was giving me a "you come near me with tools again and I'm high-siding your sorry ass as soon as the opportunity presents itself" look.
Now, using anti-seize, a six-point socket (whole set of 6-pointers was $109 on sale at Sears), and a 3/8-inch drive, the drain bolt backs right out with minimal effort.
My ZZR's first oil change could have been the same way, as the Kawasaki factory had the drain bolt torqued in almost unbelievably tight. I used patience, my 6-point, and VERY gently applied pressure with a 1/2-inch ratchet to loosen it. Reinstalled with anti-seize and the correct torque value per the owner's guide, and it came off easily at the 3000-mile oil change. Of course, that was only about two months later...