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Re: Pictures are worth a thousand words

Compare your pics to those of a pro, and you'll see that a pro has his upper body much further off the bike, and lower.

On the lean/slide bike that California Superbike School has, you can practice hanging off while the bike is stationary, with someone there to immediately correct your position. For me (45, two bad disks), the correct position was the position of maximum pain. For you it might be different. :)
 

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one more thought.....once you do get the suspension set up as good as you can pirelli and metzeler make a race 190/55 that will add a little rear ride height. which is perfect for bikes with six inch wide rear wheels that come stock with 190/50. Also, i agree, michelin pilot sports suck for aggressive street or track riding....
 

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Re: Pictures are worth a thousand words

I was there that day in the medium/slow group as well. I was on the Red Kawasaki ZRX. It was a great day for a track day at BIR. I've thought about upgrading my suspension but wanted to try some track days before I made any changes and now I'm hooked on track days and only have money left for more track days.
 

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You're not also taking into consideration a round-trip plane ticket, hotel accomodations, possible rental car if there's no shuttle to the track, and some meal costs. I live in MN and Code, Spencer, and Schwanz don't.
 

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They also give you a great primer on suspension setup to keep.

If you want you can run your bike and they will track prep it for you. Plus they will set there and run through the last session 1 on 1, they do make you faster on track in one day.
 

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Suspension mods make a difference!



Recently, I was in the same exact spot with my '99 R1. I added an Ohliins shock and could not beleive it was the same bike. Big improvement there. Then I got carried away-thinking that some wheels should be next on the list. While looking for a set of magnesium wheels (track use only), I stumble across a very sano track only bike that had been given the full chassis monty. Ohlins forks, GMD Comptrack offset triple clamp, Penske shock with different linkage to raise the rear ride height, magnesium wheels. Very little in common with my stock bike in the end. Way more stable without having to resort to a steering dampner (positively no headshake, thank you GMD Computrack). The only downside is that the bike does not give quite as much front end feedback. Yet I cut over three seconds a lap off at my home track by the second session (1:17's Roebling Road). Comptrack says this bike has the same geometry set up Gobert used on his R7. Whatever, it plain works!!!



I now have a street R1 (Ohlins shock) with only about 3500 miles for sale-
 

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I have a 2002 CBR600F4i. After 2 Superbike School courses and 3 track days (at Phillip Is, Australia) I got RaceTech Gold Valves for the front and rear, a new RaceTech front spring, and had the rear raised via a 3mm washer on the rear shock.



I wish I had waited longer before doing this.



While I'm sure the mods improved my suspension, the feel of the bike was greatly changed - and I immediately lost confidence, resulting in slower lap times. In fact I test rode other bikes with dialled in stock suspension at the track - and they felt much better.



I believe you need to understand the suspension before you try to improve it. Play around with the settings on stock suspension. Either you find a better setup, or you'll work out what you need improved. From what you've said, extra preload on the rear sounds like a starting point.



Considerable suspension setup experimentation, another Superbike School course (level 3) and 10 more track days, and I've ripped 10 seconds off my best laptime. But I don't really know if this is mainly due to improved riding ability or improved suspension - cos I'm definitely riding much better.



When I got the suspension mods - it comes with a sortof guarrantee period whereby I can get anything changed within the first 3 months. But it took me 6 months to get my suspension sorted out. I now know I need a stiffer front spring and thinner (or less) oil in the front fork - but the guarrantee period has expired.



I reckon my suspension mods was a waste of money - cos I wasn't in a position to know exactly what I wanted. And now I've blown that money I can't afford to get the changes I know I need.
 

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Springs on 1st gen R1 are too soft on both ends,coming out of corners on the power forks extend too much, rear squats, geometry is changed to cruiser like and bikes runs wide .Sky is the only limit how much do you want to spend fixing this but bare minimum would be 0.95 fork springs and rear shock with 500lbs/inch spring( for 200 lbs rider+ gear)
 

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get a good rear shock (ohlins, Penske), and send the forks out (traxxion, race tech), get a steering damper (Ohlins, hyperpro, scotts) and some good tires. Don't forget to GMD Comput the frame. If you have the $$, its very cheap insurance and you'll have more fun, going faster.
 

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Interesting. At 150 lbs, my KLR with minimal preload seems to work well for me (not so great with a passenger, obviously, but the KLR isn't much of a two-up bike to begin with). Do you think there's a benefit in going with the Progressive LR stuff even if I'm not overloading the stock suspension?
 

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What tyre pressure are you using at the track.



The Aussie Superbike School recommends 30psi front and rear. This allows the tyre to heat up quicker and grip better.



Typically a race tyre needs to ridden harder to acheive the optimal heat. So unless you are pretty quick, you may not get the tyre to proper operating temperature - which obviously means it won't perform properly.



If you go to slicks, you'll probably need to also invest in tyre warmers - as you may damage the tyres while they're cold.
 

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You Tosser, poeple go to track days to get off the road and enjoy riding safely without risk of running into cars and objects etc not to ***** race!! I can not believe you stated in one reply " ...But then again I was easily the fastest guy in the novice group. Some people out there are going so slow I wonder why they dropped $140 to ride on a track."

Wanker - you are missing the point completly - go ahead and spend every ***** doller you have and be one of the ****heads with the best gear but no idea in town - ****HEAD"

 

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From what I understand of motorcycle suspension, step 1 of all set-ups is to get the springing right: correct preload and spring rate to give the right amount of static sag. After this comes adjusting the dampers.



Changing springs is usually pretty straightforward and cheap, and should reap rewards for stability by maintaining the right fork angle and ride height. You can always carry on and fit Gold Valves or a new shock after this.



I fitted Gold Valves to my RF900. The best thing about the valves was the chart and video that came with them that showed how to customise the shim stacks. Now I get to ride around continually analysing the way the bike handles, figuring out what changes to make, and then realising that it isn't worth the effort to change!
 

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For Abe and ZRX_bullock

Where can I find the info for Trackdays at BIR, I've been trying to find that out and checked the CRA website but must have looked in the wrong area. I'm only an hour or so away from there so it would be nice to see what it's like on the track.

I don't have the bike to do track days this year but I'm looking to get a new one this winter and to add some go fast parts to a 85 ninja 600 (needs new suspenders anyway) that I might think about taking out on the track too.

thanks for any info

Ducgroupie out
 
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