Read it a bit late, but man what a great article. Was stationed in Aviano, Italy from 97-01 and it was the best motorcycling, bar none, I have ever experienced. Yes, there are comparable roads here, but the experience isn't even close. The cops there don't run radar in the middle of nowhere for no reason, and the vast majority of cars will actually pull over to let a bike past. Kids wave at you as you go through town. You can leave your bike and gear in the middle of a crowd and no one will touch it. I could go on and on... It truly is heaven on 2 wheels. I was immune to the August heavy traffic, because we just headed east into Slovenia during that time. Great little country. Funny that you mention Passo de Aprica, since that was our low altitude fall back ride when the snow came early or stayed late in the year. The area around Cortina was a favorite Saturday ride, and day trips were usually around Belluno. Passo de Stelvio will never be truly described in word or pictures, either. As for Switzerland, next time, stay overnight in Andermatt. There are 5 great passes within 30 minutes of this beautiful little town, and you can do day trips for a week out of it. We usually camped at Furka Pass. And if you ever have the means, the island of Corsica is the best week you'll ever spend on 2 wheels, and the road N96, I think is the best road on the earth. God I miss it...
Randy